[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Check on ebay item #380413145337  It is the exact part you are looking for.  There is  just over 1 day left for the item to be available.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Might I add to Jerry’s post that you consider Dearborn Classics?  They seem to be more involved with the cars from the 60s.  I am sure they could answer your question.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

What specific switch are you looking for?

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I “googled” ’54 Mercury Sun Valley and came up with the following information regarding color for these cars.  They were only available in 2 lower body colors according to the article.  Those were yellow and mint green.  Both came with a dark green top.  You can find the original body color of a ’54 by looking at the first two numbers on the data plate (located on the drivers door jamb) under “body specif”.  If your car was an original white car that number would be 22.  The black one you reference would have an 01.  Post that two digit number and I will tell what the original color of your Sun Valley is.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Don’t know if this will help, but essentially ’52-’56 (except ’56 is 12 volt) are identical heating systems.  The location of the control levers in the dash assembly are slightly different but the balance of the system is the same.  I have done several of these systems so if you want to email me separately I will see if I can be of help.  Email is virgil53@windstream.net

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Try contacting Merle Fourez.  He advertises in Quicksilver.  His ad says he does ’49-’55 but it might be worth a call.  Number in the ad is 805-646-3345.  Otherwise, you will just have to go down the list of advertisers and parts supplers until you get a lead on one.  Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I looked at Gary Richard’s Tech info in the Fall/2001 issue of Quicksilver which discusses the ’59 Model Identifications.  In that article the first letter in the serial number is the engine code.  For ’59 the identifying letters are either L, M, N, or P for the US produced models.  It appears obvious that the Canadian cars use a different ID code.  Not sure where to find the Canadian IDs.  Did you buy a complete car or just the engine?  Where on the car is the R1 located?  There were only three engine sizes offered in the US for ’59.  They are the 430 cu. in., the 383 cu. in. (two barrel carb or four barrel carb) and the 312 cu. in.  Sorry I can’t currently be of more help.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Power steering was available from the factory in ’54.  You can add it with the proper parts.  You will need a pump, control valve, power (hydraulic) cylinder, and linkage.  You will also need a drive belt for the pump and the hoses to connect your pump to the control valve.  If you get a shop manual for your ’54 (Faxon Auto Literature) there is an entire chapter devoted to power steering.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I copied the shop manual pages for Tom and sent them to him last week.  He should have them by now.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I’ll give it a shot.  Email me at virgil53@winstream.net

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Harold,

I know Gary well.  You would be better off giving him a call.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

There are a bunch of them in IMOA.  Use the contact box to access the member directory and click on ’58 model year.  There were at least 6 there.  Don’t know if they are running or not but there is contact info for the owners.  They are not all Montclairs, but a couple of Parklanes and a Monterey or two.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

One way to get brighter lights and the potential of adding A/C (your other post) is to switch to a 12 volt system.  You mentioned that you will not do that.  I am curious as to why.  Obviously if you want to keep the car original you must keep it 6 volt.  There is also the expense of switching.  The benefits are many however.  The option to add A/C is one, a modern sound system is another, and the brighter lights are another. 

As to options for the 6 volt system and brighter bulbs.  I am not sure anyone makes a 6 volt LED bulb but maybe you have found them.  I’m not sure, but don’t the LED bulbs “plug” into a socket instead of the push and twist style for the stock bulb.  To add a filament to the back up lights you will need new pigtails that have a dual contact system like the brake/turn signal bulbs.  Don’t know what you might gain and if it is worth the trouble.

Have you thought about using an 8 volt battery to get the bulbs brighter.  It will not burn out the bulbs any faster and they will burn brighter.  I use an 8 volt battery in my ’55 and it seems to work without trouble.  You will not need to change anything in the electrical system and only adjust the voltage reuglator to put out a little higher voltage.  The starter loves the extra voltage and will spin the engine that much quicker.  NAPA stocks an 8 volt battery that fits fine in my ’55.  (Don’t know if you have NAPA in Greece however!).

As to the A/C, I recall, when I was a kid, that we had a swamp cooler for the car that plugged into the lighter socket.  It pumped water over a pad and then a fan circulated the air through the pads.  It sat on the driveline hump and although it wasn’t dry air like today’s A/C it was a little cooler than ambient air.  I think ours had a 12 volt pump and fan but I would think you could use a 6 volt heater motor to run the pump and fan.  Just a thought. 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Try a new clip.  It will have the proper spring tension to hold the crank in place and they are cheap.  The splines don’t have much to do with holding the crank on.  They make sure the regulator turns when you turn the crank and keep the crank positioned on the regulator.  Are you having this problem with a single crank?  There is a depression behind the splines on the regulator that the clip fits into when you install the crank.  Be sure this is in good shape. 

You don’t need to go online to get the clip.  Most good parts stores (NAPA) will have them in stock for less than a dollar.  I would suggest you replace all of them.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Tetraethyl lead was an inexpensive way to add octane to gasoline and also provided a cushion (lubricant) between the valve and the valve seat.  I have had several older cars and have never used a lead additive.  These would include a flathead in my ’53 Merc.  When I overhauled the 292 in my ’55, hardened valve seats were used by the machine shop so that lead in gasoline was not a major issue.  Lead was removed from gasoline when catalytic converters were introduced.  Lead destroyed the chemicals in the converters and rendered them useless.  I agree with John in that we don’t use our old cars in extreme conditions and usually “baby” them.  Under those conditions I think you are throwing your money away buying lead additives.

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