John & Shirley Harvey
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The quarters from any 57-58 2 door model will do. You may have to work on the top where the belt line is, I’m not exactly sure if the quarter ends in the cove molding area, or if it goes all the way to the belt line on these. Depending upon exactly how much you need, you might be able to cobble together 4 door ones to work, although with a Turnpike Cruiser convertible, the finished value would justify looking for the correct parts.
Thanks for the replies, guys. Unfortunately, my wife died, and I need to find a new home for this fine car. My arthritis makes it so that it is difficult for me to get in and out of it, or I’d keep it, because my Explorer has 375,000 miles on it. The Explorer is still the best tow vehicle I have ever had. It doesn’t use oil, leak, drip. or rattle. I drove the Mercury a little–like to my nephew’s wedding in Florida. It delivers 25 MGP on the highway. It is a fine ride, just like I remember my Crown Vics to be, but getting in and out is a problem. If anyone is interested in a really nice Grand Marquis, please contact me.
Thanks. My son is coming tomorrow, I’ll send him under there to look.
I know that these cars are bullet proof. I had 4 Crown Victoria company cars with the 4.6 L engine. Each went more than 150,000 miles before the fleet manager decided that they had met the time requirements of the tax reform act of 1986, and told me to dispose of the car. I gave them to my son, who took them to San Diego, and sold them to cab drivers when his ship left port. They are also capable of mounting a class 3 trailer hitch with the 2 inch receiver to carry my wife’s mobility scooter. My Explorer has 375,000 miles on it, and is still tight and dependable. Before getting the cars with the 4.6 L engine, I never had a Ford that didn’t make me walk.September 30, 2016 at 6:12 pm in reply to: 56 Montclair safety neutral switch, were to get one and how to install. #4828
The neutral safety switch is near the bottom of the steering column, where the transmission lever stick out. Look for wires at the base of the column. I looked at several auto parts stores I deal with, but they don’t list it. You may have to look for a used one. IO won’t promise it, but Ford just might work.
There is a company named JUST DASHES that restores and makes dash pads. Their website is justdashes.com
The \Medalist was produced in 56, skipped in 57, then built again in 58, for the last time. Actually, the Medalist was a “stripper” model. Unfortunately, it was priced very competitively with the Ford Fairlane and if you could “deal”, you might get a Ford Fairlane 500, which were much dressier looking cars.
Send your email address to me at firstname.lastname@example.org, and I’ll copy the pages from the service manual and send them back to you. Just twisting on that top nut will make things worse, not better.
It depends upon what you want to do. 4.27:1 would be great for drag racing, especially on the 1/8 mile tracks, but the 3.92 is a whole lot better if you plan to drive the car on the street, and maybe get some half way acceptable gas mileage. I don’t have a book that covers 50 specifically, but 54 had 4 ratios, 3.32,3.54, 3.90, and 4.10.
There is a tool that is used for aluminum and vinyl siding that hooks under the lip of the siding, so you can pull it down and pop it off the the piece above it. You can slide a piece of plastic sheet under the trip piece before you try to insert the tool, if you want to be certain not to mar the paint. Use a putty knife to move the trim away from the panel before you try to insert the tool.
Simon: Those chrome headlight bezels were the result of someone taking them to a chrome plating shop , and having them done. I don’t even recall J.C.Whitney selling them back in the day.
Both of my 55 Montclairs have yellow paint on everything, with red lettering on the valve covers. The air cleaner, fan and pulleys are black. The Monterey parts car I had also was painted this way.
I don’t have a Phaeton, (would love to have one), and I do not know exactly what the weather strip you have is made like, but is it possible to shave the flat side of the material you have to make it fit?
I have never heard of one of these kits for the Y block. The most common problem I know of with the Y block is the rear main seal. Falcon 144 CI 6 cyl engines suffered from an overhead valve oiling problem, and the external oil system was real common with them. That problem was cured with the 170.
Color has absolutely nothing to do with the size of the wire. Use 16 gauge. 18 will do, and you can use 14 if that is what you have.