[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Use the member directory to contact Gordon Hawkins. He has a couple of 60 Mercs. Just click on “access the member directory” in the upper right hand corner and you can find his contact information.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Which model Mercury are you working on?

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

There are two phillips head screws that you can see on the front of the cluster around the top. There are also four studs (two on each side) of the back of the instrument cluster. You will need to remove the nuts from these studs. Of course the wiring will have to be disconnected as well. Be sure to mark everything. Now for the trickiest part. To get the cluster out you will need to lower the steering column. There is a bracket that is held in place by two large screws with relative large phillips head bolts. These are usually very tight and you will need some leverage to get them loose. The problem is the screw driver is hard to hold in place and keep enough upward force to prevent slipping. Use a ratchet with a screw driver type attachment if you can. If you remove these I suggest you replace them with bolts that have an allen head.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

The Comet guy for IMOA is Carlos Vera. He is in Colorado near Denver. You can find his contact info in the Member Directory on this website. He also has an ad in Quicksilver.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

What year and model does this part fit?

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I looked at my ’54 shop manual for a routing diagram for the vacuum hoses. There is no diagram for that in the manual. There is a vacuum line from the intake manifold that goes through the firewall to the wiper motor. You can “T” off of that to go to the heater valve on the heater plenum under the dash. This is the valve that has a cable from the lever on the dash. There is a vacuum line from that valve to the heater control valve on the block that exits the interior with the wires for the heater motor and cable for the vent control again through the firewall.

Also, you would “T” off of the main vacuum line to the control that activates the washers. From that control a vacuum line would run to the washer fluid container.

As long as those wires are hidden I don’t think it matters exactly how you route them.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Simply, yes. The kit is also offered by other vendors.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Check with C&G Early Ford Parts in Escondido, CA. They show the seal for ’39 & ’40 Mercs. Give them a call at 760 740 2400. Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

What year and model are you referencing?

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Typically the fuses on these older Mercs are located individually for each accessory. That is to say the radio will have a fuse along the wire taking power to the radio and so on for each accessory (clock, cigarette lighter, heater, etc.) There is not a “fuse block” like you see on newer cars.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Check with C&G Early Ford Parts. They show rebuilt distributors for your ’52 on their website. I have ordered parts from them in the past with great results. They are in Escondido, CA. They can answer your question regarding interchange. I see no reason why the Ford would not be the same as a Merc. I think they would also rebuild your distributor for you or have the parts to do so.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I would check with any good parts supplier for Ford parts. I looked at Napa’s website and also Dennis Carpenter. Both show oil pressure sending units for a ’56.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I think websites exist for exotic cars such as Corvette, Cobra, Ferrari, etc. I am not aware of any that do so for Mercury. The Cougar Club of America may have information on some of the more rare Cougars.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

You can find data plate info on the internet by “googling” the make and year and data plate info. For your ’59 I got the information from the Spring 2001 issue of Quicksilver. Trim code 326 is medium blue metallic vinyl and medium blue box weave cloth. There are also trim codes 326A through 326D listed with minor differences in the material used but all medium blue metallic.

Also, if you get a shop manual for your car they usually have data plate decode information in them as well.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Ed,

I do use the original wheels without any problems whatsoever. I have heard that the flexing of the radial could cause problems especially with hubcaps staying on the wheel but that has not been an issue either.

Any wheel that can be used with a tubeless tire should be adequate. You referenced wheels from the 40s and most of those required a tube. Not a good thing with a radial tire.

One other comment: do not get tires that are too wide as they will not fit between the rear brake drum and the body of the car when you try to put them on.

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