[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Kent,

Assuming you have an automatic transmission the back up light switch is part of the neutral (safety/start) switch located on top of the steering column just toward the fire wall from where the wires exit the column from the steering wheel area. There should be a curved fixture screwed to the steering column. I believe the fixture is made of “bakelite”. The two female connectors on that fixture toward the passenger side are for the neutral safety switch. There should be two female connectors on the driver’s side of the fixture that are for the back up lights. There should be a hot wire to one side and then the other side’s wire runs to the back up lights. When you move the shift lever it lines up contacts with the contacts on the fixture on the steering column and the circuit is completed. It is actually a very simple system. Not to confuse things but some folks have rotated the fixture so that the back up lite contacts line up with the Park shift position so the car will start in Park and then the old neutral start contacts become the back up light contacts.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Should have also mentioned Dennis Carpenter. They advertise in Quicksilver. Check out their website for your mirror parts as well.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Archie,

Check with Dearborn Classics. They seem to specialize in the cars from the 60s especially Galaxie (big Merc). I looked on their website and did see an outside mirror that came with the gasket. Don’t know if that would meet your needs but you can certainly check it out. I have worked with them in the past and they are very helpful. Phone is 800-252-7427. Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

First thing I would be sure of is that this is the dipstick original to the car. Don’t know exactly why your dipstick shows so differently based on the way you “stick it in”. I think I would use some middle point between the two readings as the oil level. Certainly by following the refill recommendations in the BOOK you won’t be hurting anything. The dipstick in my ’55 with a 292 isn’t the most accurate thing either.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I contacted my nephew, Eddie Klein, who is quite familiar with these engines for help with this. The hydraulic lifters are not adjustable and will be noisy if the engine has been sitting for awhile. The “ticking” noise is not uncommon in this situation. He suggests using Rislone oil treatment and a lighter weight (thinner) oil for awhile. Assume you have changed the oil and filter.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Try the folks at smsautofabrics.com

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Give the folks at SMS Auto Fabrics a call at 503 263 3535 or go to their website at smsautofabrics.com They were able to help me with leather for my ’87 Cougar and I know they have material for older cars as well. Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Contact Gary Richards in Southern California. You can look up his contact info on the member directory on this website. Best to phone him. I don’t want to post his info for the general public.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

My shop manual for ’54 shows that only the station wagons have the Dana 44 rear end. All of the others have a standard Ford differential. The gear ratios for the Monterey with overdrive would be 4.09 (45-11) as the standard rear gear or 3.91 (43-11) for the optional rear gear. You no doubt have the Ford differential as they remove the entire assembly from the front of the housing once you remove the axles. Don’t know why the bibliography would show anything different.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I would suggest you call one of the vendors and ask them. I looked at C&G Early Ford Parts website and they show only a single number for each patch panel and do not differentiate by Ford or Mercury. They seem to know what works on each brand and how they interchange. Give them a call, or give the guys at Macs a call. They will know the answer to your question. Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Let me begin by saying that I have no personal knowledge of transmission removal on an X frame ’49 Merc. I did speak to someone who is experienced with ’40 Ford (also X frame) transmission removal. You do not need to remove the engine to remove the trans. When you take the transmission rear mount from the cross member you will find that the transmission can be jacked up and the trans mount (cross member) can be removed. The mount must come out the top so lift one side up and rotate to clear the output shaft. You can then lower the engine/trans assembly down so the transmission can clear the X frame. Be sure to support the back of the engine in this process. Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Guess I should add that I used the epoxy to hold the original retainer in place behind the emblem.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I used two part epoxy on my ’55. No effect on the paint.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Fog lights for the ’54s were a factory option. They are a rare option and a pair of fog lamp assemblies in excellent condition can fetch upward of $1500.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Welcome to IMOA, Gareth. Great cars those ’70 Cyclones GTs. May I suggest using a feature of the IMOA website that allows you to find other members who have cars similar to yours. Simply click on the “access the member directory” line towards the upper right of this page. By clicking on 1970 in the “year of car” section a list of all our members who own 70s Mercurys will open up. You can then contact them directly by phone or email for help in locating parts, or rebuilding help.

Best of luck with your project.

[Author]

Posts