Roy & Brenda Lange

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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  • in reply to: convertible top #3784

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    I have 53′ Merc Convertible and lately I just put the windows up first then put the top up. Maybe not correct but it works and they seal perfectly.

    in reply to: 52 Mercury Convertible Top Drive Cable #3562

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    tjc:

    Both of his were already broken. The search continues.

    Thank you,

    Roy

    in reply to: 52 Mercury Convertible Top Drive Cable #3543

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    tjc:

    Thanks, got your e-mail and called him. I have my fingers crossed.

    Thanks,

    Roy

    in reply to: 52 Mercury Convertible Top Drive Cable #3499

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    Just a thought:

    E-bay listing for GM top cable, might be able to be cut down in length

    tp://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-9874739-GM-Convertible-Top-Drive-Cable-71-76-GM-scissor-top-9874739-GM-/370961703096?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565f0a60b8&vxp=mtr

    in reply to: 52 Mercury Convertible Top Drive Cable #3497

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    I have a 53′ Merc Convertible so I know what you are looking for. You might try: 1971-1975 Cadillac Convertible Top Drive Cable. It looks like a heavy duty speedo cable.

    I am looking for the 90 degree piece that connects the top bow (second to the last) to the lowering mechanism that is located over the passenger side rear quarter window.

    My e-mail is: royd13483@aol.com
    Roy Lange
    (303) 838-2028

    in reply to: 1954 Mercury wheel color #2748

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    5917:

    I

    have a 53″ Merc – very nice driver not a points car. As John Harvey said you can go with whatever color you

    want. But when it came to my wheels I checked with a local guy that has built

    two Dearborn winner 53’s and this is what I learned. The wheel color is called

    Vermillion. It took awhile but I found in made by Plasti-kote (FM-8134). It only

    comes in 8 oz spray cans and I had to buy it through my local part store

    (Carquest)…he was able to order it for me and get it in one day. Now as to painting the

    wheels…..this is the fun part. From what I understand, the wheels were all

    supplied in black to Ford. What they did was to spray the wheels only on one

    side with the Vermilion color. When you paint the wheels, first spray then

    black. Then spray the outside surface with the Vermillion and make sure

    you spray through the holes in the rims as it will then leave the red paint (overspray or through spray) on

    the back side of the rims. This is supposed to be the correct way. You can take

    it for whatever you want but the paint is available and the procedure is easy

    enough to do, plus it makes for a great story when you are telling others about

    your restoration of the car.

    If you want pictuires e-mail at royd13483@aol.com

    in reply to: Installation of idler arm – 1953 Merc manual steering #2677

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    And the answer is:

    <p class=”MsoNormal” style=”line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 3;”>Re: Installation of idler arm – 1953 Merc manual steering

    <p class=”MsoNormal” style=”line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;”>by jdl » Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:11 am

    <p class=”MsoNormal” style=”line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;”>Remove the Idler arm bracket from the frame, unscrew the bracket from the arm, now unscrew the arm from the draglink, now remove the old bushings from the draglink and frame bracket, install the new bushings and torque to 85-100 ft lbs. wind the new arm into the draglink all the way, then back off (1turn or until you have about 5/8″ clearance between arm and bracket), and arm is pointing straight ahead. install the frame bracket to the arm all the way, then back off the same amount, then install the bracket to the frame.. Your done!!

     

    in reply to: Hope everyone is well and busy #2665

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    <div id=”post_message_147046″>Here in Colorado, we seem to do it a bit different. We keep all the snow on the western slope (where the sky resorts are and here on the eastern slope we drive our cars, since it is around 40 degrees (or colder) and the roads are clear….in my case that works just fine, since I have a block in the car with 5 cracks and a new on a stand next to it just waiting to be built. All I know is that I don’t have any overheating problems…but on the other hand it is too cold to put the top down on the 53’ Merc. </div>

    <!– / message –>

    in reply to: Period Correct Radial Tires #2651

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    5917:

    I have a 53′ Merc that I put radials (Coker) on and it was like night and day, especially cornering, and that is very important to me since I live in the mountains and going up and down through the canyons can be a challenge even in a modern car. Also, if you get caught in the rain your will be very glad you have them. The bias-ply had a tendicy to “roam” all over the highway, where as the radials are a joy to drive on, straight a true. The bias-ply had a tendency to “roam” all over the highway, where as the radials are a joy to drive on. Roy

    <p class=”MsoNormal” style=”margin: 0in 0in 10pt;”>Warning…if you have large/full hubcaps on the car, they may fall off when driveling, I had to go to ‘Dog Dish” hubcaps to keep them on. The Radials flex and cause the hubcaps to fall off….more so in the front than the rear.

     

    in reply to: Flathead Overheating #2611

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    Clint:

    Let me know what you find out regarding the overheating issue.

    Thank you,

    Roy

    in reply to: Flathead Overheating #2610

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    Clint and Nancy: My basis for this is from my 53’Merc:….As to the water all over the engine bay…if you have an overflow tube going down the side of the radiator, it probably stops shy of the lower sheet metal. Take a piece of tubing and put it on the bottom over flow tube down through the metal pan…that way the water will flow on to the ground. The fan is picking up the water now and spraying it all over the engine bay….this will keep the engine bay clean but not fix the problem. If as Virgil and Sue said the head gaskets are swapped then the only option is to pull the heads and correct it…..not a big project if you have a torque wrench…..you can do it in a day. I would guess that you have an air pocket in the block, so it is not cooling. When you fill up the radiator leave it low to allow for expansion of the fluid and the air to come to the top and then let it idle in the drive way and watch for the air bubbles. When they stop, turn off the motor and fill up the radiator – leave about 1 1/2 ” from the top to allow for expansion.  One last thing…have you checked the radiator cap…the 53’s needed a 4 lb cap….it should say on the top of the cap. I am in the membership book if you want to call….Roy and Brenda Lange, Conifer Colorado. Good luck.    

    in reply to: Flathead Overheating #2609

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    Clint and Namcy:

    My basis for this is form my 53’Merc:….As to the water all over the engine bay…if you have a overflow tube going down the side of the radiator, it probably stops shy of the lower sheet metal. Take a piece of tubing and put it on the bottom over flow tube down through the metal pan…that way the water will flow on to the ground. The fan is picking up the water now and spraying it all over the engine bay….this will keep the engine bay clean but not fix the proublem.

    If as Virgil and Sue said the head gaskets are swapped then the only option is to pull the heads and correct it…..not a big project if you have a torque wrench…..you can do it in a day.

    I would guess that you have an air pocket in the block, so it is not cooling. When you fill up the radiator leave it low to allow for expansion of the fluid and the air to come to the top and then let it idle in the drive way and watch for the air bubbles. When they stop, torn off the motor and  fill up the radiator – leave about 1 1/2 ”  to the top to allwo for expansion.  One last thing…have you checked the radiator cap…the 53’s needed a 4 lb cap….it should say on the top of the cap. I am in the membership book if you want to call….Roy and Brenda Lange , Confier Colorado. God luck.

     

     

    in reply to: Intake Manifold ‘Hot Spots’ #2604

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    Makes you wonder if powercoating would work better than painting…..winter is coming soon so you might have the down time for the car…

    in reply to: 58 Mercury Monterry oil or transmission leak #2591

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    Not shure how close to top of your trans dipstick tube is to the back of the intake manifold, but on my 53′ Merc, when it was overfilled, (also possible if converter leaks out into the pan) it blows back up the dipstick tube and out the top. It just might be possible that when it hits the dipstick cap, it is directed towards the back of the manifold….just a thought. You might  let it sit overnight, then lift the hood and start it up and see what happens….mine sat from 1982 until 2009.

    in reply to: Hard to find parts #2587

    Roy & Brenda Lange
    Participant

    5900, do you have a picture of the relay your are looking for….thinking you have one but it does not work and you are looking for a replacement.

     

    Roy

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)