I can think of a couple of solutions that may work. Depending on how much of the stud is left you could use a threaded coupler and thread it onto the stud (you may have to clean up some thread to get it started) and then use some threaded stock of the proper size and thread it into the coupler, run it through the floor board, and tighten the nut. If there is not enough stud left (a common problem for us old guys) I am guessing you will have to drill out the stud and then simply use a bolt and nut of the proper length, diameter, and hardness.
A ’56 engine is gold (heads, block, water pump, pan) with dark blue valve covers and air cleaner assembly, with silver lettering on the valve covers. I am not sure about gloss vs semi gloss for the aprons.
I would agree with you that once you have the pan off you might as well replace the rear seal. I think the ’54s had some issue with that rear seal leaking. I looked up rear seal installation in my ’54 shop manual and it appears there is a need for a special tool to seat the seal into the grooves properly. Not sure where you could purchase such a tool but I would check with FelPro for help. Maybe someone else has replaced that seal without the tool and can post on the website. Good luck.
Hi John and thanks for the info. Looks like our posts “crossed in the mail” so to speak.
I used the new feature of the website to look up what kind of Merc you have in the membership list. It shows you have a ’54 4dr. I looked up oil pan removal in my “Motor Auto Repair Manual” and here are the steps to remove the pan while the engine is in the car.
1. Bring #6 piston up on top dead center (TDC) to allow clearance between oil pan and crankshaft.
2. Remove screws attaching engine splash shield to frame side members.
3. Raise car and drain crankcase.
4. Unfasten and remove engine splash shield from frame crossmember.
5. Disconnect stablizer and pull it forward to allow clearance for oil pan removal.
6. Remove inlet tube from oil pump and loosen nut securing inlet tube to oil pan.
7. Remove attaching screws and drop pan.
From this it does not appear you will need to lift the engine. It allows seems important that the number 6 cylinder be at top dead center.
Hope this helps.
