[Virgil & Sue Klein]

The auction is on October 27 in Archer, NE which is near Central City (also close to Grand Island).  The auction company is VanDerBrink Auctions and you can find information by entering VanDerBrink Auctions in google or go to Mercuryland’s website and there is information there as well.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

My understanding is that Mercuryland will continue to sell new parts but they are getting rid of all the cars and used parts at this auction.  I would encourage anyone who lives anywhere near central Nebraska (within 1000 miles) to attend this auction.  The amount of used parts that are being auctioned is amazing and it is almost all Mercury.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I plan to attend as well.  I do not live far from Archer and have been to Joel’s place.  You will not be sorry that you attended and I hope all the Mercs there wind up with IMOA members.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I did that swap a few years ago in my ’53.  It is very straight forward.  We were even able to use the stock shift linkage.  As I recall the transmission mount was in the proper location and needed a new hole drilled to complete that part of the install.  Would suggest an auxiliary trans cooler be installed while you are doing all this.  Have fun!!

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

The front exterior door handles on ’55s are the same throughout the model line.  Some ’56 Montclairs have an additional piece attached to the rear of the door handle to finish off the chrome (stainless) trim on (what I call) the “bib” molding.  The ’55s have a separate small piece of stainless to finish off that trim.  I also know from experience that door handles from a ’56 Phaeton (the 4 dr hardtop) will not fit a Montclair or any other ’56 for that matter.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Assuming these are drum brakes, any kind of grease, oil, or brake fluid on the drums or brake shoes will cause the brakes to lock up.  Assume you have checked for that first.  Is it one wheel doing this or all four?  The other simple option might be that the brakes are adjusted too tightly.  Surely whoever adjusted the brakes followed the steps in the shop manual. 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

There is a ’59 Park Lane convertible on ebay right now and it has some great photos of the power window controls.  As John said the 4 switch module is on the dash as is the single right front module.  It appears that the rear windows are controlled by a switch in the standard location for the crank.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I don’t know too much about ’59s but we have several in IMOA.  I did look at a pictures of a station wagon for sale on ebay.  It does appear that there are some kind of controls on the left dash after is wraps around under the windshield.  I would suggest obtaining a shop manual if you buy the car.  It will have all the details.  Faxon at faxonautoliterature.com has the book or CD/DVD.

Also in answer to your other post on decoding the data plate I can only help in two areas.  For some reason the sources I am using (Fall, 2001 issue of Quicksilver) does not have the trim codes for the ’59 but does have the other codes.  The transmission code 7 denotes a M/D, dual range transmission and the 2 for axle is a 2.71:1 for automatic transmission.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Google “Mercury Cyclone registry” and go to the Cyclone, Montego, Torino website that is listed.  They should have some information on the number of survivors of that model.  Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Thanks John!!

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I don’t.  I did look up the adjustment procedure in an old “Motor Manual” I have and also emailed a friend here who has a ’57 TPC.  The adjustment procedure appears to be somewhat complicated and may require a special tool or two.  I would be happy to copy those pages from the manual and send them to you if you think they would be helpful.  I did have a ’58 Edsel years ago with the push buttons in the middle of the steering wheel.  That system was not the same as the Merc.  It was electrical and worked quite well when adjusted properly.  It did not have the “start” button located on the neutral button but used the key to activate the starter as in most cars.  I think the starter circuitry can be a bit of a problem.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Suggest that you obtain a shop manual for that car.  The shifter mechanism can be tricky and difficult to deal with.  There are many places to get shop manuals but I have had very good luck with Faxon.  Their website is faxonautoliterature.com.  Hope this helps a little bit.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

This is a common problem with the ’53s as everything rusts out behind the bumper.  They make universal sockets that I used when I restored my ’53.  These have spring clips around the socket that you can plug in to the back of the turn signal assembly.  You just need to get the correct size.  Any decent parts store will have them in stock.  As I recall, I had to do a little grinding on the assembly to get mine to fit properly.  They have been in there for several years now and work just fine.  If you need to change a bulb you simply “pop” them out, put in the bulb, and put them back in.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Just got off the phone with Gary Richards regarding your question.  The simple answer is that they are not the same color and in fact Gary says the hubcap color isn’t actually red but something more toward burgundy but not that dark.  He also said the color is translucent so that you can see through it slightly.  He suggested trying a hobby shop spray paint selection.  The problem with using translucent paint is that if you scuff the hubcap so that the paint will stick the scuff marks will show up through the paint.  If you don’t scuff the hubcap the paint won’t stick and will come off with the spray from a hose.

 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I don’t know of a company who makes a kit for all the clips.  The only factory clips you will need on your ’55 are the rocker panel molding clips and the roof rail clips.  All of the other stainless (quarter panels, fenders, doors, hood) can use the universal clips that bolt on).  You can get them in various sizes at any parts store and for a whole lot less money than the factory clips.  When I did my ’55 a few years back I got the roof rail and rocker panel clips from a gentleman in Whittier, CA.  His name was Guy.  I reached him at 310 696 3307.  I don’t know if he is still in business as this was almost 20 years ago.  I think some of our suppliers (Mercuryland, MACS, Dennis Carpenter) may also have these clips or know where you can get them.  Good luck.

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