Virgil & Sue Klein
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Try contacting Merle Fourez. He advertises in Quicksilver. His ad says he does ’49-’55 but it might be worth a call. Number in the ad is 805-646-3345. Otherwise, you will just have to go down the list of advertisers and parts supplers until you get a lead on one. Good luck.
I looked at Gary Richard’s Tech info in the Fall/2001 issue of Quicksilver which discusses the ’59 Model Identifications. In that article the first letter in the serial number is the engine code. For ’59 the identifying letters are either L, M, N, or P for the US produced models. It appears obvious that the Canadian cars use a different ID code. Not sure where to find the Canadian IDs. Did you buy a complete car or just the engine? Where on the car is the R1 located? There were only three engine sizes offered in the US for ’59. They are the 430 cu. in., the 383 cu. in. (two barrel carb or four barrel carb) and the 312 cu. in. Sorry I can’t currently be of more help.
Power steering was available from the factory in ’54. You can add it with the proper parts. You will need a pump, control valve, power (hydraulic) cylinder, and linkage. You will also need a drive belt for the pump and the hoses to connect your pump to the control valve. If you get a shop manual for your ’54 (Faxon Auto Literature) there is an entire chapter devoted to power steering.
I copied the shop manual pages for Tom and sent them to him last week. He should have them by now.
I know Gary well. You would be better off giving him a call.
There are a bunch of them in IMOA. Use the contact box to access the member directory and click on ’58 model year. There were at least 6 there. Don’t know if they are running or not but there is contact info for the owners. They are not all Montclairs, but a couple of Parklanes and a Monterey or two.July 7, 2011 at 4:53 pm in reply to: '54 Mercury tail-lights, how can I make them brighter? #2696
One way to get brighter lights and the potential of adding A/C (your other post) is to switch to a 12 volt system. You mentioned that you will not do that. I am curious as to why. Obviously if you want to keep the car original you must keep it 6 volt. There is also the expense of switching. The benefits are many however. The option to add A/C is one, a modern sound system is another, and the brighter lights are another.
As to options for the 6 volt system and brighter bulbs. I am not sure anyone makes a 6 volt LED bulb but maybe you have found them. I’m not sure, but don’t the LED bulbs “plug” into a socket instead of the push and twist style for the stock bulb. To add a filament to the back up lights you will need new pigtails that have a dual contact system like the brake/turn signal bulbs. Don’t know what you might gain and if it is worth the trouble.
Have you thought about using an 8 volt battery to get the bulbs brighter. It will not burn out the bulbs any faster and they will burn brighter. I use an 8 volt battery in my ’55 and it seems to work without trouble. You will not need to change anything in the electrical system and only adjust the voltage reuglator to put out a little higher voltage. The starter loves the extra voltage and will spin the engine that much quicker. NAPA stocks an 8 volt battery that fits fine in my ’55. (Don’t know if you have NAPA in Greece however!).
As to the A/C, I recall, when I was a kid, that we had a swamp cooler for the car that plugged into the lighter socket. It pumped water over a pad and then a fan circulated the air through the pads. It sat on the driveline hump and although it wasn’t dry air like today’s A/C it was a little cooler than ambient air. I think ours had a 12 volt pump and fan but I would think you could use a 6 volt heater motor to run the pump and fan. Just a thought.
Try a new clip. It will have the proper spring tension to hold the crank in place and they are cheap. The splines don’t have much to do with holding the crank on. They make sure the regulator turns when you turn the crank and keep the crank positioned on the regulator. Are you having this problem with a single crank? There is a depression behind the splines on the regulator that the clip fits into when you install the crank. Be sure this is in good shape.
You don’t need to go online to get the clip. Most good parts stores (NAPA) will have them in stock for less than a dollar. I would suggest you replace all of them.
Tetraethyl lead was an inexpensive way to add octane to gasoline and also provided a cushion (lubricant) between the valve and the valve seat. I have had several older cars and have never used a lead additive. These would include a flathead in my ’53 Merc. When I overhauled the 292 in my ’55, hardened valve seats were used by the machine shop so that lead in gasoline was not a major issue. Lead was removed from gasoline when catalytic converters were introduced. Lead destroyed the chemicals in the converters and rendered them useless. I agree with John in that we don’t use our old cars in extreme conditions and usually “baby” them. Under those conditions I think you are throwing your money away buying lead additives.
You will have to remove the radio. That is not difficult. The speaker grill does come off but only from the bottom. The speaker itself is held in place by four screws (as I recall) that you access from the bottom. You must remove the heater plenum (the cardboard to the left of the heater assembly) to remove the radio. Unhook the power, speaker, and antenna wires, remove the cap screws holding the mounting brackets on the side of the radio, pull the volume and tuning knobs off the front, remove the two nuts holding the radio in the dash (behind the knobs), and the radio will practically fall out of the dash.
I checked on C & G Early Ford parts website and they only show one parts listing for ’55-’56 floor pans so that would make me assume that the Fords and Mercs are the same. Give them a call to find out.
The stand for the jack has slots in it. Put the slot on the long end of the stand over the tab to the right rear of the spare tire well and lay the jack down in the trunk. The end of the jack will wind up on the raised portion of the trunk, over the rear axle, in a small depression made for it. The jack mechanism itself should be somewhere near the middle of the spare tire. As to the jacking instructions sticker location, I don’t think it is all that critical put it should be on a flat surface on the inside of the trunk lid over the spare tire. I’m guessing that the factory did not use a template to locate these instructions.February 18, 2011 at 12:16 am in reply to: Optional Entertainment/Shows To Be Announced For IMOA Branson Show! #2670
Check with Steele Rubber at steelerubber.com Although they used to be exclusively GM stuff they now have Ford/Mercury stuff as well. In the catalog I have they show rubber moldings for 70 Montego. Not sure they have rubber for a 4 dr hdtop but at least it is a starting point. That is a very intersting car you have being a 4dr with a 429 and a 4 speed. Good luck with your project.
Both my ’53 and ’55 are stored in an insulated but unheated garage here in southern Nebraska. Right now it is 15 degrees outside and the garage is probably right around 32. To store these beasts for the winter I only change the oil and filter after a very good warmup sometime in October and then change it again in April. The cars are always run after the oil change for a few miles (around 20) just to give the fresh oil a chance to circulate. I don’t touch the other fluids but do change the coolant about every three years. I do fill the tank and add “Stabil” to the gas before I put them away. Both are also attached to Battery tenders. The eight volt battery in the ’55 is at least 6 years old and still working great. I attribute that to the the battery tender. I do use an 8 volt battery tender (yes, they do make them but you have to ask).