Virgil & Sue Klein
Forum Replies Created
Mapquest shows the distance to be 108 miles from Shipshewana to Fairmount and just over 2 hours. Hope you can make the trip.
I went to the website for C&G Early Ford parts to look at part numbers and see what is different. It appears the ’49s have a different motor mount and water pump than the other years. Did you change water pumps at the time of the overhaul? If you used a later model water pump it has a different mounting system that will bolt right up to your flathead block but will have the wrong mounting brackets. Their parts catalog has pictures that might help you as well. I would suggest giving C&G a call to see what is going on in your situation.
My friend owns a repair shop in So Cal and at least twice in the last couple of years has had cars come in for repairs that were purchased in an online auction. The pictures on line looked great and the cars were “exceptionally clean” according to the ads. They may have been clean but in each case it took over $10,000 to get the cars safe and roadworthy. If you buy a car online without seeing it first you need to have your head examined. It is still the ol’ horse trade days out there and certainly “buyer beware” applies in every case.
Oh yeah, and COMPLETE, obviously doesn’t mean complete.
It would depend on the reason for the leaking rear main. If the seal is worn out, of course it will leak, but that may not affect oil pressure. However, if the rear main is leaking because the rear main bearing is worn then you could also have low oil pressure. There are other reasons for low oil pressure including worn cam bearings, a worn out oil pump, or oil that has too low of viscosity or just low oil levels. You could also have an oil pressure gauge or sending unit that is malfunctioning. Hopefully it isn’t too serious or expensive to fix. By the way, does a ’71 have a PCV system? If so, you might want to be sure that everything is functioning properly. A plugged PCV valve or a constricted hose can create tremendous pressure in an oil pan that will push oil out of any weak spot.
I’m not sure about the hardness factor on seat attachment bolts. I certainly would not use the softest metal as there can be a lot of stress on those bolts and the last thing you want coming loose in an accident would be the seat. I don’t think I would use anything less than a grade 5. I would guess you can by threaded stock by hardness at a decent auto parts store or hardware store. I also like to use “a big ol’ honkin’ washer” (that would be a technical term) under the floor board to spread the forces out a little.
I can think of a couple of solutions that may work. Depending on how much of the stud is left you could use a threaded coupler and thread it onto the stud (you may have to clean up some thread to get it started) and then use some threaded stock of the proper size and thread it into the coupler, run it through the floor board, and tighten the nut. If there is not enough stud left (a common problem for us old guys) I am guessing you will have to drill out the stud and then simply use a bolt and nut of the proper length, diameter, and hardness.
A ’56 engine is gold (heads, block, water pump, pan) with dark blue valve covers and air cleaner assembly, with silver lettering on the valve covers. I am not sure about gloss vs semi gloss for the aprons.
I would agree with you that once you have the pan off you might as well replace the rear seal. I think the ’54s had some issue with that rear seal leaking. I looked up rear seal installation in my ’54 shop manual and it appears there is a need for a special tool to seat the seal into the grooves properly. Not sure where you could purchase such a tool but I would check with FelPro for help. Maybe someone else has replaced that seal without the tool and can post on the website. Good luck.
Hi John and thanks for the info. Looks like our posts “crossed in the mail” so to speak.
I used the new feature of the website to look up what kind of Merc you have in the membership list. It shows you have a ’54 4dr. I looked up oil pan removal in my “Motor Auto Repair Manual” and here are the steps to remove the pan while the engine is in the car.
1. Bring #6 piston up on top dead center (TDC) to allow clearance between oil pan and crankshaft.
2. Remove screws attaching engine splash shield to frame side members.
3. Raise car and drain crankcase.
4. Unfasten and remove engine splash shield from frame crossmember.
5. Disconnect stablizer and pull it forward to allow clearance for oil pan removal.
6. Remove inlet tube from oil pump and loosen nut securing inlet tube to oil pan.
7. Remove attaching screws and drop pan.
From this it does not appear you will need to lift the engine. It allows seems important that the number 6 cylinder be at top dead center.
Hope this helps.