Aris & Lena Loumidis
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Well, my ’54 Montrerey has the Ford differential after all, not the Dana one. Mine is the optional 3.9 ratio.
I have searched EVERYWHERE either for a new ring&pinion set, or a usable differential core that could be rebuilt, but no luck ….. nothing new and nothing used.
HOWEVER, I located a machine shop here that does absolutelly amazing stuff, computerised and everything! They could make a new R&P set from scratch (!!!) but luckilly my set has never been worked on before, has little wear, so I hope they will regrind and polish it back to the original spacs!
So keep this in mind, for anyone esle having the same problem !!!
Well, my Y-block is the original in the car, I got the car with the help of our outstanding president Jerry Robin and when it came here it had onlyy 6.000 miles on it, and by now I’m up to 25.000 miles. Does anyone know when did this modification came out and if it was issued by Mercury?July 11, 2011 at 7:43 am in reply to: '54 Mercury tail-lights, how can I make them brighter? #2697
Thanks for the input!
For now I’ll stick to 6volt, going to 12v to me is altering the car too much; I love driving the car and remembering the old days with everything that comes with it. I have done another conversion on another classic, by converting the generator to an alternator keeping it at the original 6volt positive ground, it works with an alternator hidden inside the original generator; it’s expensive (about $850) but it makes a hell of a difference and looks are 100% original, maybe I’ll do it in the Merc as well.
The 8 volt battery is also a very good idea, I now have Optimas that last long and do a great job but you are right, maybe I should go for it, BTY, NAPA does not ship outside the US, I wish they did though !
The sound system was another story, driving for hours with AM mono was not good enough, so I’ve converted the original radio to a powerful AM/FM and with powerful speakers hidden under the front seats I’t really ‘rocking’ ! It works with 6-to-12volt inverter (or what they call it) hidden in the uit and has iPod and 3,5mm pin inputs and it also gives out a 12v cigarette lighter adaptor for charging phones, GPS’s etc, it’s really worth the change and of course the looks are still original.
Same for sweating without AC, but I guess I have to live with it, unless this issue is also resolved for 6V in the future.
I’m only worried about safety with the rear lights, i guess I’ll give a try to the 6v LED’s i have found various types on the web, I will also try to remove what seems to be a second inner round lens, maybe it will help.
No posts from this end, I was really busy preparing the Monterey for a long trip to the Balkans. We clocked 2.800miles all the way to transylvania (Romania), only with a minor hickup forom the V/Regulator (but the spare was in the trunk ..)
One more great trip bringing back memories from my childhood, when dad was driving us to Germany in the summer!
And the car is a most dependable driver, thanks to you and IMOA for locating it and to this forum for helping me to keep running it!
OK, I just posted some questions, so lets hear from you guys !
<p class=”MsoNormal” style=”margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;”>OK, I did some searching and have confirmed that Ford’s Y-Block middle ports are indeed connected to the exhausts, to provide heat to the choke and carb. However I also read that besides the known discoloration issue, this often results to cracked heads as well, especially in warmer climates! Anyone facing this problems?
<p class=”MsoNormal” style=”margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;”>One remedy I read about somewhere, was to improve water cooling in the area, by drilling holes on the block(?) and installing Fel-Pro’s improved head gaskets. Unfortunatelly I lost the link; has anyone heard on this?
<p class=”MsoNormal” style=”margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;”>The other is to use Intake Manifold gaskets that have those middle ports almost blocked , leaving a small opening only. I ended up finding in http://www.bestgasket.com , three gaskets for the 1954 Mercury, but I cant figure out the proper engine application. Anyway they have TWO gasket sets, P/N 14044 and P/N 14043, where the 14043 shows the middlle ports blocked.
<p class=”MsoNormal” style=”margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;”>Has anyone tried this? The question anyway is: if the discoloration issue is resolved with the blocked manifold gasket, will this bring more heat to the cylinder heads and make them crack more easily?
<p class=”MsoNormal” style=”margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;”>Here are Best Gasket’s three application links.
<p class=”MsoListParagraph” style=”text-indent: -18pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 90pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;”>1. http://www.bestgasket.com/engine_catalog_years.asp?YearsCID=1954 Merc 256, Truck 1954-55…….[572-3]
<p class=”MsoListParagraph” style=”text-indent: -18pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 90pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;”>2. http://www.bestgasket.com/engine_catalog_years.asp?YearsCID=1954E, 239 EBU…….
<p class=”MsoListParagraph” style=”text-indent: -18pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt 90pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;”>3. http://www.bestgasket.com/engine_catalog_years.asp?YearsCID=1954L-55, 239 EBV…….[572-4]
This is what i have:
The carb is the HOLLEY 2140, EBY-9510-J-LIST -863-6 (or G) and I ‘m pretty sure it is the original ‘teapot’ for my ’54 Mercury’s V8.
On the Intake Manifold it’s more confusing. Mine is stamped EBY-9425-D 3AJ. What about yours? If you kept the original manifold, what is the P/N on it?
I also looked in my ’54-’55 Parts Catalogue and on the Intake Manifold, there is only one listing: ”B5A-9425-D, Manifold (Intake) +ECB-9425-B”, BUT it is listed ONLY for the MC-1955 Mercury ! I could not find an Intake Manifold listing for my MB-1954 model.
I also looked up the Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Gaskets, where I found two different P/N’s for the ’54 and ’55 models:
EBY-9439-A, RH for the MB-’54 model and B5A-9439-B, also RH for th MC-’55 model
EBY-9441-A, LH for the MB-’54 model and B5A-9441-B also LH for the MC-’55 model..
On my engine all four ports on each side that send mixture from the carb to the cylinders (marked 1 to are fine, no discoloration. It is only the two middle ports that have the Hot Spots, and I now believe that are connected to the exhusts, to warm-up the manifold and the choke. But I am at a loss why they get so hot, especially since your original set up had no Hot Spots…..
Could it be that we both have the wrong gaskets in there, that allow too much exhaust going through?
Maybe someone more experienced can shed a light here?September 1, 2010 at 2:19 pm in reply to: Need Information on 56 Mercury Bendix Treadle Vac Power Brake System #2564
I dont know who could do the job for you, but if you decide to do it yourself, it is not that hard to do if you follow the manual and your unit needs no major overhaul.
In case you do, make sure you get the correct rebiult kit ! Some years back I did the job myself in my ’54 Monterey and got myself into endless trouble because the rebuilt kit they sent me was for a ’54 Lincoln.
I did not think it would make a difference as all the parts looked identical with the ones in my unit. It took me ages to pinpoint that one of the gaskets had just one more hole punched in it!
Good Luck !
Oooooops! sorry guys, I should have mentioned that I have the ’54 4d Monterey !
Thanks for the very helpful instructions, Virgil, they do make a difference as I thought I could only lower the oil pan to slip in the gasket!
One more question please: Is there a way to determine if besides the oil pan gasket, I also have a leak from the rear crankshaft oil seal?
Perhaps once I have gone that far, it might be worthwhile to change the oil seal as well, but thne Ii read on the Fel-Pro oil seal instructions, that I should use a special ‘packing tool’ which i dont have. Any suggestions are welcome!
Well Done Jerry! Keep Up the good work !!!!!